Temperatures

HotEnd Temperature Settings

The temperatures that you print at are extremely dependant on the material you’re printing with. Some materials are more sensitive to printing temperature than others. Because each brand, type, and even color of filament can print at different temperatures, it’s usually best to abide by the filament manufacturer’s suggestions when setting a printing temperature.

Be aware of your HotEnd’s maximum safe printing temperature, and don’t exceed it. Going over your maximum printing temperature can damage the hardware of your printer:

  • PTFE-lined HotEnds can print up to around ~245°C. After that, the lining will start to deform, and can cause clogs and failures.

  • Standard thermistors can typically print until around ~300°C. After that they become less reliable in their temperature measurements.

  • For full-metal HotEnds, aluminium heater blocks can usually reach ~340°C before they become unstable.

Tweaking HotEnd Temperatures

It can be valuable to do some tests of different printing temperatures in order to get the best quality or strength out of your prints. Here are some things to keep in mind:

  • Inter-layer adhesion can be improved with slightly higher temperatures, as warmer layers fuse together better.

  • A warmer first layer can help improve bed adhesion.

  • Reducing printing temperature can improve oozing and stringing.

Use Automatic Fan Control

Toggle whether Pathio will control your printer’s fans, or if it will omit any fan control codes from your final Gcode. Keep this checked under normal circumstances.

Automatic Nozzle Temperature Control

Toggle whether Pathio will control your nozzle’s temperature, or if it will skip setting any nozzle temperature commands from your final Gcode. Keep this checked under normal circumstances.

Automatic Bed Temperature Control

Toggle whether Pathio will control your bed’s temperature, or if it will skip setting any bed temperature commands from your final Gcode. Keep this checked under normal circumstances.

Temperature Set Points

Build Plate Temperature

Sets the temperature for the build plate to heat to. If you don’t have a heated build plate, set this to 0.

Nozzle Temperature

Sets the temperature for your primary HotEnd.

Idle Nozzle Temperature

Sets the temperature for a HotEnd that isn’t actively printing (for use with multi-extruder printers)

Fan Control

It’s important to know if your printing material performs best if it cools down right away rather than cooling gradually. If the latter, make sure to turn off your active cooling fan!

For filaments that prefer to be cooled immediately after being extruded, active cooling can help when printing very small tops of prints, letting the layers fully cool before the next begins. This also helps with curling that might occur on layers besides the first.

Fan Activation Delay

For this many layers (including the first layer), the active cooling fan on your printer won’t be on.

Higher numbers will deactivate your fan for more layers. This can help reduce warping off the build plate.

Lower numbers will deactivate your fan for fewer layers. This can be helpful if you don’t need to worry about warping.

Max Fan Speed

Sets the maximum speed your active cooling fan can spin.

Default Fan Speed

Sets the normal active cooling fan speed while printing.

Overhang Fan Modifier

Sets the speed that your active cooling fan will be spinning when printing overhangs.

Bridging Fan Modifier

Sets the speed that your active cooling fan will be spinning when printing bridges.

Support Fan Modifier

Sets the speed that your active cooling fan will be spinning when printing supports.