When setting your feed rate, remember that faster printing will almost always lead to poorer quality prints. Certain materials, such as flexible ones, must be printed slower than others. Ringing, layer shifting and filament grinding are all common problems that come from printing too quickly.
If you’re adjusting your printing speed, think about your printer’s acceleration and jerk settings, too. Simply pushing up your printing speeds won’t help if your printer never reaches them because its acceleration is too low.
It is important to lower the feed rate of your first layer to improve adhesion to your build plate. Don’t be afraid to lower this down to as low as 10% of your normal build speed!
Infill can usually be printed faster than other parts of your print since its appearance isn’t important and its strength is not usually affected by speed.
For best surface finish, external perimeters are usually printed slower than the rest of your part.
For stability, it’s usually good to print support structures slightly slower than the rest of your part. Typically 80% or so of your normal print speed will prevent the pillars from accidentally toppling over.
Support interfaces can be printed at full speed, unless you notice some other problem with cooling or extrusion flow.
This is the "fast" speed that your printer will move when not extruding. Travel moves can be made as fast as your printer can move accurately.
Because no extrusion happens during a travel move, its precision isn’t quite as important as a normal printing move.
This is an alternate feed rate for printing brims. Typically brims are printed around the same speed as the rest of the first layer
Rafts should be printed slower than other layers because they’re a part of your first layer. However, they don’t usually need to go quite as slow as a typical first layer because the thick base layers of a raft are designed to stick really well to the build plate.